Take a walk on the 'south side' London south of the Thames

Whether you live north or south of the Thames says something about you in London. I am not exactly sure what that is in reality, and in some ways it is a joke, but there is a definite divide.

Sure, north of the river has all the big sights in London: Buckingham Palace and all the surrounding gardens, Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament, Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus, the National Gallery, Harrods, Regent and Oxford Streets. In recent years, however, a visit to the south side of the Thames has become more than a quick walk past tired old buildings and through dark urine-drenched tunnels, but an enjoyable stroll. In fact, stopping at all there will keep you occupied for days.

So after leaving the Houses of Parliament, cross the Westminster Bridge, staying on the same side as Big Ben. Straight ahead on the next right-hand corner is the specialist Florence Nightingale Museum, dedicated to the world’s most famous nurse and to the history of nursing in general. The museum contains an archive of books and letters written by Florence, along with her own personal items. But if you are not into things medical, then walk down the steps onto the embankment and turn to duck under the bridge. The London Eye, or Millennium Wheel, looms ahead on the edges in Jubilee Park, literally dipping into the Thames. The tallest Ferris wheel in the world moves people around in closed capsules at about 26 centimeters per second, lifting them up and around for the most spectacular view of London.

Before the Eye, to the right, sits Country Hall, home to the London Aquarium and permanent Salvador Dali exhibition. Sea creatures swim around in 2 million liters of water in one of Europe’s largest global aquatic exhibitions alongside a surreal fantasyland of over 500 of Dali’s works.

Beyond the Eye, toward Waterloo Bridge, sees the transformation of this mostly homeless and itinerant hangout block into a café and restaurant hub. Nestled in and around the Royal Festival Hall, where the Golden Jubilee Bridge crosses from Embankment underground station, hundreds of people flock to the area to sit and talk, eat and drink before or after shows, or just to meet.

As you pass under the Waterloo Bridge, booksellers will have their secondhand wares on offer, set up on portable benches out front of the National Film Theatre’s café doors. To the right after the bridge is the National Theatre, but continue walking along the water’s edge, past the Oxo tower, then under Blackfriar’s Bridge. Sitting alongside this next strip of walkway is the Tate Modern, the huge converted power station making its mark on the skyline and on the art scene in London. The gallery houses the country’s international modern art collection, that is, anything post-1900. The permanent exhibitions are free, with special exhibitions attracting fees and sometimes long lines.

Since the opening of the Tate Modern in 2000, many other smaller galleries, in the back and side streets of Southwark, have opened their doors and walls. The Bankside Gallery hosts the Royal Watercolour Society and the Royal Society of Painter-Printmakers exhibitions where pieces are available at reasonable prices.

The first new bridge to be built across the Thames since 1894, the Millennium Bridge, traverses the river from the Tate Modern to St. Paul’s Cathedral. Built, as its name suggests, to see in the year 2000, the opening was originally delayed due to its severe swinging and swaying in windy times, which, let’s face it, come quite frequently in a London winter, spring, autumn and unfortunately summer!

If you liked standing in line at the Tate Modern, then Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre offers the opportunity to partake in performances in much the same as it was in Shakespeare’s day. That is, standing with necks extended to view the actors who are set high upon the stage ahead. Seats are available and recommended for the longer acts! The site also boasts the largest exhibition dedicated to Shakespeare and the London in which he worked.

After leaving the theater, the path passes a typical English pub and ducks away from the water’s edge onto a cobble-stoned path. Before the path enters a slightly darker patch, under the train tunnel arches, Vinopolis, the wine tasting venue sits with its doors open and ready to welcome visitors, who can take themselves on one of three self-guided tasting tours.

Beyond Vinopolis is The Clink Prison Museum, where the horrors of the London prison, used from 1144 until 1780, are on display. For something a little lighter yet equally touristy, the Golden Hinde, the reconstructed Tudor galleon of Sir Frances Drake, sits permanently at the St. Mary Overie Dock. Costumed actors tell the story of life on the ship and the voyages of Drake.

But if you can walk by the very touristy attractions and around the corner, both the Southwark Cathedral and Borough Market await. The cathedral is London’s oldest Gothic church and sits where at least one church or another has sat for 1,400 years. City workers will lunch in the gardens of the church, especially on a sunny day, with the market offerings tempting them away from their offices. The Borough Market, which has been in operation in some form or other for many hundreds of years, has become London’s most attractive and gourmet farmer’s market.

London Bridge sees the official end of Bankside, the London riverside precinct that starts at Blackfriar’s Bridge. The complete journey from Westminster to London Bridge is about three kilometers, but depending on whether the attractions along the way distract you, it can take anywhere from one to many days to get to the Pool of London.

The Pool of London, not to be confused with the crystal clear waters of swimming baths, is the section of the Thames bordered by London and Tower Bridges (and a little beyond) in the east of the city. A little way along the waterside from London Bridge and past the private London Bridge Hospital is Hay’s Galleria. A steel and glass barrel roof now covers this wharf, originally built in the 1850s. Modern sculptures and fountains break up the space designed to invite people in to relax, have a break over a coffee, snack or meal.

Docked on the Thames just beyond the old wharf is the HMS Belfast, Europe’s only surviving World War II big gun warship. Open to visitors, the ship has a total of nine decks to wander through. On the shore-side nearby is a space called “More London,” a new business development area, alongside The Scoop. The Scoop is an outdoor sunken amphitheater with seating for 800 people. The venue hosts free theater, music and films, especially throughout summer.

At the end of Shad Thames, the street that runs parallel to the river is the Design Museum, a space dedicated to contemporary design in every form from furniture to graphics and architecture to industrial design. Originally developed by Terrance Conran in the basement of the Victoria and Albert Museum 25 years ago, it moved to its current location in 1989 and has developed an international reputation.

If you time it right, the sun will be setting and the lights coming on along Tower Bridge. Stop to have dinner in one of the restaurants along the wharf and enjoy one of London’s most attractive views, the lights lit up over the bridge.

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Places to eat

There are literally hundreds of places to eat along the south side of the Thames. Many of London’s most successful franchises
will have one, two or maybe three branches open along the way and whilst some of these are okay, and can be especially good for families, here is a selection of more
individual places worth trying.

Benugo Bar and Kitchen at the British Film Institute (BFI)
The South Bank Centre
Belvedere Road
+44 20 74019000
This relatively new spot in the rejuvenated BFI’s complex has a great comfortable lounge area along with a slightly more
formal dining area.
Open: Monday-Friday 9:45 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday brunch 11 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sunday roast 12:30 p.m.-4 p.m.

Tate Modern Restaurant
Level 7, Tate Modern
Bankside
+44 20 7401 5020
At the top of the old power station, the restaurant is open for light lunches, casual drinks as well as more formal meals. The view is one of London’s best and coupled with the food, one of the better choices along the Thames.

Tapas Brindisa
18-20 Southwark Street (Borough
Market area)
+44 20 7357 8880
Great Spanish food, especially interesting tapas.
Open: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Spanish breakfast: 9 a.m.-11 a.m.;
bookings not taken

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Places to visit

Florence Nightingale Museum
St. Thomas' Hospital
2 Lambeth Palace Road
+44 20 76200374
Open: Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
Closed: Good Friday, Easter Saturday and Sunday, Dec. 22-Jan. 2
www.florence-nightingale.co.uk

London Aquarium
County Hall
Westminster Bridge Road
+44 20 7967 8000
Open: Daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
Closed Dec. 25
www.londonaquarium.co.uk

The Tate Modern
Bankside
Open: Sunday-Thursday 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 10 a.m.-10 p.m.
Closed: Dec. 24-26
www.tate.org.uk/modern

Bankside Gallery
48 Hopton Street
+44 20 79287521
Open: Daily 11 a.m.-6 p.m. during
exhibitions
www.banksidegallery.com

Shakespeare's Globe Theatre
Bankside Riverwalk
+44 20 70902 1500
Open: Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. -- Exhibition
Closed: Dec. 24-25
www.shakepeares-globe.org

Vinopolis
1 Bank End
Open: Monday, Thursday and Friday
noon-10 p.m.; Saturday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday noon-6 p.m.
Closed: Tuesday and Wednesday
+44 870 241 4040
www.vinopolis.co.uk

The Clink Prison Museum
1 Clink Street
Open Monday-Friday 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
+44 20 7403 0900
http://www.clink.co.uk/

The Golden Hinde
St. Mary Overie Dock
Cathedral Street
+44 20 7403 0123
Open: call for opening times
www.goldenhinde.org

Southwark Cathedral
Bankside
+44 20 7367 6700
Open: Daily 8:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m.
www.southwark.anglican.org/cathedral

Borough Market
8 Southwark Street
+44 20 7407 1002
Open: Thursday 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; Friday noon-6 p.m.; Saturday 9 a.m.-4 p.m.
www.boroughmarket.org.uk

Design Museum
28 Shad Thames
+44 20 7403 6933
www.designmuseum.org
Open: Daily 10 a.m.-5:45 p.m.
Closed: Dec. 25-26