This is how the country came to be known as "Lebanon," which actually means "land of milk." These days there are not so many milk-producing farms here, but it is certainly still a gorgeous nation sitting on the shores of the Mediterranean.
Despite the many years that have passed since the end of its civil war, Lebanon still has not managed to shake off all the traces of its past conflicts. You cannot pass the many buildings that are still pockmarked with bullet holes without wondering what kind of hatred drove the people who shared this land with for so many years to turn against each other. This was a civil war that was waged between the Christians, Druze, Sunnis and Shiites living in Lebanon. During the heaviest period of fighting, in the 1980s, Beirut experienced dramatic destruction. Every corner of the city was in ruins. You understand, though, that life goes on -- even in these corners of destruction -- especially as you walk around and see clotheslines strung up between the partially ruined buildings still standing from that period.
When you see the present state of the Lebanese streets, you can't help but remember that for hundreds of years various ethnic groups lived in peace here during the time of the Ottoman Empire. The Ottomans ruled Lebanon by way of a special governor sent to the region from the center of the state, and great freedom was allowed the various ethnic groups living in Lebanon to live and act according to their individual beliefs and traditions. Immediately after the Ottomans pulled out of the region, the Middle East turned into a blood bath. The basis of the peace that had previously reigned in the region was the skill, tolerance and justice of the Ottoman rule. And so when this came to an end, everything was disrupted.
Since its civil war ended in 1991 Lebanon has been busy trying to mend its wounds. Ruined buildings are being restored, streets and boulevards have been taken under control again and the cities are, for the most part, being put back into their original order. (Yes, but I guess it's much better overall from what I hear from all my friends, too who go back every summer)
Today, along the coastal road of the Lebanese capital of Beirut, there is a strip of luxurious hotels. When you look at the shop signs along this coastal road, you can see that the French were in Lebanon for a long time. It's almost as though there is more French on these signs than Arabic, and there are French words sprinkled throughout the Arabic you hear being spoken on the streets. A great number of Lebanese people speak French. Sixty percent of Lebanon's population is Muslim, and the country is home to nearly 20 different ethnic groups.
Beirut is a coastal city that appears to have embraced all of the magnificence of the Mediterranean. In the Arab world Lebanon is a favorite spot for vacations. Even during the winter months it is filled with tourists.
One of the first things you might notice while walking around Beirut's streets is the level of traffic in this city. Don't bother asking how it is that a nation this small could have this much traffic; spending at least a few hours in traffic each day is a part of life in Beirut. Take the time to notice some of the characteristics of this traffic, though. For example, look at the old Mercedes that are used by Lebanese taxi drivers.
Make sure you take the time to visit one of the many restaurants serving traditional Lebanese food in Beirut. There is, for example, the well-known Nehr'il Funun restaurant, where customers can eat dinner as Lebanese singers take to the stage and sing songs in Arabic. Most of the customers here are Arabs, though you might see a few European tourists, too. Don't forget to eat dishes such as tabbouleh, mensef (steaming rice piled with lamb-on-the-bone and covered in a creamy, spiced yoghurt sauce), lahme ba'jin (meat-covered thin pizza) and hummus. You might notice that the word "lahme ba'jin" is quite close to what we say in Turkey: "lahmacun." This is no coincidence since the word derives from Arabic and only turned into "lahmacun" over time.
One site that you definitely don't want to miss in Lebanon is the Jeita Caves, which are visited by an estimated 250,000 tourists every year. To put this into perspective, the total number of tourists who come to Lebanon yearly is around 600,000. The lighting used in these caves is "cold lighting," which is less likely to harm the stalagmites and stalactites here. This series of caves is located in a river valley and is actually composed of two separate caves on top of one another. You won't be able to get enough of just looking at these beautiful natural stones whose shapes have been formed by running water over thousands of years. The Jeita Caves were not open to visitors during the Lebanese civil war. But then in 1995 they opened up again to curious tourists and local visitors.
The symbolic cedar tree
The cedar tree, which adorns the Lebanese flag, is not actually that easy to see in this nation. This is because cedar trees can generally only be found at sites that are well above the sea level, on snowy mountain tops, for example. You might wonder why on earth there would even be snow here, in the Middle East, but remember that in Lebanon there are mountain tops that rise up to 3,088 meters into the air.
One of the most remarkable characteristics of the cedar tree is its life span. Cedar trees can live for thousands of years. Some cedar trees have been found to be 4,000-5,000 years old. In the Old Testament, the majesty of the cedar tree is described this way: "In its branches were nests made by all the birds in the sky, and all nations lived in its shade."
Cedars are also known for their wonderful aroma and for the strength of their wood. In fact, this strength has made them a favored tree for shipbuilding and roof-building through the ages. The ancient Egyptians used cedar resin in their mummification rituals and cedar sap for when they wanted to create a waterproof surface. Sadly though, the massive forests of cedars that used to grace Lebanese soil no longer exist. The British cut down large numbers of these valuable trees during World War II for the construction of the Tripoli highway. As a result of years of being cut down, cedar trees finally fell under the protection of UNESCO's World Heritage, which is attempting to protect them for future generations. In fact, the Lebanese government has even set aside a special fund from its budget to protect these trees. There are currently five separate institutions whose duty is simply to protect cedars in Lebanon.
[Travel tips]
Visas: Lebanon requires visas from Turkish citizens. The price for visas is $35. US and EU citizens can get their visas at the airport.
How to get there: You can fly to Beirut directly from İstanbul on Turkish Airlines. The ticket price is currently 229 euros plus taxes and fees. Flights leave every night at 11:40 p.m. You can also fly to Beirut from İstanbul on Royal Jordanian, with flights leaving every day at 2:25 p.m., for 258 euros plus taxes and fees.
Where to stay: There is a wide range of wonderful hotels along the coast in Beirut.
Cuisine: You will have no problem finding delicious food that appeals to your taste buds in Lebanon. The one factor that might be a little difficult is the abundant use of spices and distinctive sauces.
Pay attention to these factors: There is still an ambiguous security situation in the nation and, technically, Lebanon is a risky country to visit. You should go only after paying close attention to the most recent news and developments in the country. You don't want to find yourself in the middle of potentially deadly clashes. There are also reports of many unexploded bombs and mines still hidden in Lebanese soil. Most of the unexploded mines and bombs are located in the southern regions of Lebanon.
[QUICK FACTS]
Capital: Beirut
Official languages: French, English
Government: Republic
Prime Minister: Fouad Siniora (interim)
Area: 10,452 square kilometers
Population: 4,196,453 *
Gross domestic product (PPP): $41.96 billion**
Main religions: Islam (53.6 percent), Christian (42.3 percent), other (4.1 percent)
* February 2008 estimate ** 2007 estimate
