Wednesday, May 28, 2008

'Lebanon' A beautiful Mediterranean vacation spot

The name Lebanon derives from the Arabic word "leben," which means milk. This used to be a region filled with farms that housed generous milk cows.

This is how the country came to be known as "Lebanon," which actually means "land of milk." These days there are not so many milk-producing farms here, but it is certainly still a gorgeous nation sitting on the shores of the Mediterranean.
Despite the many years that have passed since the end of its civil war, Lebanon still has not managed to shake off all the traces of its past conflicts. You cannot pass the many buildings that are still pockmarked with bullet holes without wondering what kind of hatred drove the people who shared this land with for so many years to turn against each other. This was a civil war that was waged between the Christians, Druze, Sunnis and Shiites living in Lebanon. During the heaviest period of fighting, in the 1980s, Beirut experienced dramatic destruction. Every corner of the city was in ruins. You understand, though, that life goes on -- even in these corners of destruction -- especially as you walk around and see clotheslines strung up between the partially ruined buildings still standing from that period.
When you see the present state of the Lebanese streets, you can't help but remember that for hundreds of years various ethnic groups lived in peace here during the time of the Ottoman Empire. The Ottomans ruled Lebanon by way of a special governor sent to the region from the center of the state, and great freedom was allowed the various ethnic groups living in Lebanon to live and act according to their individual beliefs and traditions. Immediately after the Ottomans pulled out of the region, the Middle East turned into a blood bath. The basis of the peace that had previously reigned in the region was the skill, tolerance and justice of the Ottoman rule. And so when this came to an end, everything was disrupted.
Since its civil war ended in 1991 Lebanon has been busy trying to mend its wounds. Ruined buildings are being restored, streets and boulevards have been taken under control again and the cities are, for the most part, being put back into their original order. (Yes, but I guess it's much better overall from what I hear from all my friends, too who go back every summer)
Today, along the coastal road of the Lebanese capital of Beirut, there is a strip of luxurious hotels. When you look at the shop signs along this coastal road, you can see that the French were in Lebanon for a long time. It's almost as though there is more French on these signs than Arabic, and there are French words sprinkled throughout the Arabic you hear being spoken on the streets. A great number of Lebanese people speak French. Sixty percent of Lebanon's population is Muslim, and the country is home to nearly 20 different ethnic groups.
Beirut is a coastal city that appears to have embraced all of the magnificence of the Mediterranean. In the Arab world Lebanon is a favorite spot for vacations. Even during the winter months it is filled with tourists.
One of the first things you might notice while walking around Beirut's streets is the level of traffic in this city. Don't bother asking how it is that a nation this small could have this much traffic; spending at least a few hours in traffic each day is a part of life in Beirut. Take the time to notice some of the characteristics of this traffic, though. For example, look at the old Mercedes that are used by Lebanese taxi drivers.
Make sure you take the time to visit one of the many restaurants serving traditional Lebanese food in Beirut. There is, for example, the well-known Nehr'il Funun restaurant, where customers can eat dinner as Lebanese singers take to the stage and sing songs in Arabic. Most of the customers here are Arabs, though you might see a few European tourists, too. Don't forget to eat dishes such as tabbouleh, mensef (steaming rice piled with lamb-on-the-bone and covered in a creamy, spiced yoghurt sauce), lahme ba'jin (meat-covered thin pizza) and hummus. You might notice that the word "lahme ba'jin" is quite close to what we say in Turkey: "lahmacun." This is no coincidence since the word derives from Arabic and only turned into "lahmacun" over time.
One site that you definitely don't want to miss in Lebanon is the Jeita Caves, which are visited by an estimated 250,000 tourists every year. To put this into perspective, the total number of tourists who come to Lebanon yearly is around 600,000. The lighting used in these caves is "cold lighting," which is less likely to harm the stalagmites and stalactites here. This series of caves is located in a river valley and is actually composed of two separate caves on top of one another. You won't be able to get enough of just looking at these beautiful natural stones whose shapes have been formed by running water over thousands of years. The Jeita Caves were not open to visitors during the Lebanese civil war. But then in 1995 they opened up again to curious tourists and local visitors.
The symbolic cedar tree
The cedar tree, which adorns the Lebanese flag, is not actually that easy to see in this nation. This is because cedar trees can generally only be found at sites that are well above the sea level, on snowy mountain tops, for example. You might wonder why on earth there would even be snow here, in the Middle East, but remember that in Lebanon there are mountain tops that rise up to 3,088 meters into the air.
One of the most remarkable characteristics of the cedar tree is its life span. Cedar trees can live for thousands of years. Some cedar trees have been found to be 4,000-5,000 years old. In the Old Testament, the majesty of the cedar tree is described this way: "In its branches were nests made by all the birds in the sky, and all nations lived in its shade."
Cedars are also known for their wonderful aroma and for the strength of their wood. In fact, this strength has made them a favored tree for shipbuilding and roof-building through the ages. The ancient Egyptians used cedar resin in their mummification rituals and cedar sap for when they wanted to create a waterproof surface. Sadly though, the massive forests of cedars that used to grace Lebanese soil no longer exist. The British cut down large numbers of these valuable trees during World War II for the construction of the Tripoli highway. As a result of years of being cut down, cedar trees finally fell under the protection of UNESCO's World Heritage, which is attempting to protect them for future generations. In fact, the Lebanese government has even set aside a special fund from its budget to protect these trees. There are currently five separate institutions whose duty is simply to protect cedars in Lebanon.

[Travel tips]

Visas: Lebanon requires visas from Turkish citizens. The price for visas is $35. US and EU citizens can get their visas at the airport.
How to get there: You can fly to Beirut directly from İstanbul on Turkish Airlines. The ticket price is currently 229 euros plus taxes and fees. Flights leave every night at 11:40 p.m. You can also fly to Beirut from İstanbul on Royal Jordanian, with flights leaving every day at 2:25 p.m., for 258 euros plus taxes and fees.
Where to stay: There is a wide range of wonderful hotels along the coast in Beirut.
Cuisine: You will have no problem finding delicious food that appeals to your taste buds in Lebanon. The one factor that might be a little difficult is the abundant use of spices and distinctive sauces.
Pay attention to these factors: There is still an ambiguous security situation in the nation and, technically, Lebanon is a risky country to visit. You should go only after paying close attention to the most recent news and developments in the country. You don't want to find yourself in the middle of potentially deadly clashes. There are also reports of many unexploded bombs and mines still hidden in Lebanese soil. Most of the unexploded mines and bombs are located in the southern regions of Lebanon.

[QUICK FACTS]

Capital: Beirut
Official languages: French, English
Government: Republic
Prime Minister: Fouad Siniora (interim)
Area: 10,452 square kilometers
Population: 4,196,453 *
Gross domestic product (PPP): $41.96 billion**
Main religions: Islam (53.6 percent), Christian (42.3 percent), other (4.1 percent)
* February 2008 estimate ** 2007 estimate

Saturday, May 17, 2008

-travel Dubai- Cultures learn to get along in Dubai

Claiming to have the world's tallest building, biggest airport and most expensive hotel, Dubai is a city of superlatives. Cultures learn to get along in the Arab melting pot.


Dubai is the city of 150 nations.
Some says there are so many interesting people in Dubai.
Some says you can feel so free, as a person, as an individual.
However, some says Dubai is pompousness and manufactured perfection. They also say there is nothing real about the city and you could hardly breathe any more.
People who live in Dubai have an "E-card," which allows you to bypass the passport control at the airport, where you simply place your index finger on a sensor, a door opens and you walk through.
When you pick up a visitor from the airport, you can go online, type in his flight number and your mobile phone number -- and receive a text message every half hour updating you on the flight's arrival status.
Water and electricity bills, dentist appointments, road toll -- everything reaches you via your mobile phone.
When there is an accident, the police record mobile phone numbers before they write down the vehicles' license plates. The mobile phone serves as a universal identity card in Dubai.
If you go to a clinic or hospital, an Indian receptionist can welcome you. You can be surprised to be greeted by Filipino nurses an a Syrian doctor can treat you.
When you leave the clinic, do not ask for the bill. For the Emirate of Dubai is paying for your treatment.
Dubai is not a city where you feel observed or monitored, and it has none of the annoying routines of places like Turkish cities, with their metal detectors at entrances to public buildings and armed patrols in shopping malls.
On the other hand, anyone wishing to read a tabloid online is greeted with this message: "The content of this Web site is incompatible with the political and moral values of the United Arab Emirates."
Paradoxically, print copies of any tabloid are for sale in Dubai supermarkets.
Nowhere else in the region are there so many young, ambitious and well-educated North Africans, Syrians, Lebanese, Iraqis and Saudis who have turned their backs on their repressive countries.
During the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, eating, drinking and smoking in public are strictly forbidden, and non-Muslims are politely reprimanded.
On the other hand, the supermarkets sell pork, and anyone interested in wine or whisky can drink to his heart's content in the international hotels.
Dubai is a global village, but even more than that, it is an Arab village.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

-travel- Sydney City Guide

Vast, vibrant Sydney is the epitome of the Australian surf, sand and sun cliché. Carved out of sandstone headlands with golden beaches and world-class surf, this sun-soaked city offers the ultimate in outdoor living.

At the heart of the city is the harbour, arguably one of the most beautiful waterways in the world, where the curves of the Sydney Opera House shimmer in the sunlight and dozens of white sails float beneath the Harbour Bridge.

The state capital of New South Wales, Sydney is Australia's oldest and largest city and is regarded by many (particularly Sydneysiders) as the country's capital in all but name. It's a thriving centre for both business and the arts with a buzzing cafe culture, a vibrant nightlife, and a restaurant scene fit to rival the most gastronomic destinations.

The Sydney experience is essentially a physical one. Semitropical summers and mild winters mean that days spent indoors are rare. Take a dip in the ocean at Bondi Beach or stretch your legs along the coastal walk to Coogee. Learn to surf at Manly, swim laps at Icebergs pool, kayak around the harbour, catch some rays along the northern beaches or go bush in one of the national parks.

But despite what its neighbours might tell you, there is more to Sydney than it's good-looking exterior. The museums, galleries, theatres and concert venues should satisfy those seeking more cerebral pursuits. History buffs will enjoy The Rocks, where Sydney's sordid beginnings as a British penal colony remain, and further downtown grand Victorian structures sit side by side modern monoliths in glass and steel.

Sydney's Aboriginal heritage has, for the most part, been eclipsed by Australia's white history. Although Sydney has the highest Aboriginal population of any Australia city, a stroll around the city streets offers little evidence of their existence and they remain very much an invisible minority.

The city's busy social calendar means that at almost any time of year, a festival is underway. The summer months host numerous sporting events as well as film, art and theatre festivals but pick any month of the year and you're almost guaranteed to witness some sort of celebration.

Locals have long argued that Sydney is the city that has it all but it was only following the triumphant hosting of the 2000 Olympic Games that the rest of the world sat up and took notice. Now Sydney is a ‘must see' on many a traveller's itinerary
and once you've visited, you'll understand exactly why.


Full Airport Name

Sydney Airport

Address

Sydney Airports Corporation Limited, The Ulm Building, 1 Link Road, Sydney International Terminal, NSW 2020, Australia

Airport Code

SYD

Country Code

61

Telephone

(02) 9667 9111

Fax

(02) 9667 1592

E-mail

Via the airport’s website

Website

Number of Terminals

3

Time Zone

GMT + 10 (GMT + 11 from last Sunday in October to last Sunday in March)

Location

The airport is located 9km (6 miles) south of Sydney.


Airport News

Planned for Sydney Airport is a major expansion and refurbishment of the T1 International Terminal. More than A$150 million will be spent on the expansion - which will be the first significant upgrade of T1's facilities since the 2000 Olympics. As part of this expansion programme, a A$65 million eight-storey car park for the International Terminal (T1) will be constructed. The car park will provide around 3,000 undercover parking spaces when it is completed in late 2008. T2 will also be redeveloped.

Transfer Between Terminals

An underground Airport Link connects the International and Domestic terminals. The T-Bus services operate frequent services between the terminals. Travellers changing between domestic and international flights (either way) may be eligible for the Qantas Seamless Transfer (tel: 131 313) service.

Driving Directions

Most routes to the airport are signposted; these signs indicate the most direct route to the airport. Travellers should visit the airport’s website for detailed driving directions from specific areas in Sydney.

Car Parking

The airport has three car parks. The T1 International Terminal Car Park is located on the Arrivals level of the T1 International Terminal. Domestic multi-storey and long-term car parks are also available. The Long-Term Car Park can be accessed via Ross Smith Avenue from General Holmes Drive or Sir Reginald Ansett Drive; follow the signs to the car park located near the heliport; there are regular courtesy shuttles to the terminals. Valet parking is also available.

Car Hire

Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, Red Spot and Thrifty are all represented. Car rental desks are located on the Arrivals level in the terminals.

Public Transport

Rail: An Airport Link (tel: (02) 8337 8417; website: www. airportlink.com.au) rail service connects T1 International Terminal, T2 Domestic Terminal, T3 Qantas Terminal, central Sydney and the Sydney suburbs. Airport Link stations are located at all terminals. Trains run to the Sydney Town Hall (journey time - 13 minutes). Tickets can be purchased on-line.
Road: Bus: Sydney Buses (tel: 131 500) operates a bus route between Bondi Junction and Burwood which includes the T1 International and T3 Domestic Terminals. The bus stops on the arrivals level of each of these terminals are clearly marked. Many shuttle bus companies provide a service between the airport and most Sydney suburbs and regional areas; these need to be booked in advance. Many hotels provide a transfer service for their guests.
Taxi: Each terminal has its own sheltered taxi rank. A taxi rank is located outside the mid-point of the Arrivals hall in T1 International Terminal (journey time to city centre - 30 minutes). Companies include Taxis Combined Services (tel: 133 300), Silver Service Fleet (tel: 133 100), Legion Cabs (tel: 131 451), Premier CabsSt George Cabs (tel: 132 166). (tel: 131 017) and

Information and Help Desks

The Tourism NSW Information Desk is located in the centre of the T1 International Terminal Arrivals level 1 and is open 0600-2300, providing information and help with accommodation, tours and dining in Sydney. Gold Ambassadors, who can provide information and answer queries on the airport, are stationed throughout the airport and have help desks in the Arrivals and Departures areas in the T1 International Terminal.

Airport Facilities

Money and communications: Bureaux de change and ATMs are located in all terminals. Postal and photocopying facilities can be found at Australia Post Shop, located in the centre of Departures level 2. A post office is located in the International Terminal. Internet terminals are located throughout the airport. Wireless Internet access is also available. Mobile telephone hire is available from Vodafone Rental stores in T1 Arrivals.
Eating and drinking:
There are many restaurants, cafés and bars at the airport offering a wide variety of international and Australian cuisine.
Shopping: There are over 150 retail and service outlets, including duty-free, beauty and hair salons, a wine store, an Australian produce shop, international and Australian fashion stores, and a host of speciality stores.
Luggage:
Smarte Carte operates a baggage storage service located at the northern end of the Arrivals level of T1 International Terminal; there is also a baggage storage facility on the Arrivals level of T2 Domestic Terminal. Trolleys are available troughout the airport. Inquiries about lost items should be made to the property office on level 3 of the T1 International Terminal (tel: (02) 9667 9583).
Other facilities: There is a medical centre in T1 International Terminal on the administration level 3. There is also a pharmacy in the Departures area. Free showers are available in both the Departures and Arrivals area of the T1 International Terminal. A prayer room is located on level 3 of the T1 International Terminal. There are child activity centres in T1 International Terminal and Kid’s Cinemas are located after immigration, near Gate 33. Child-sized toilets are installed in all female toilets and baby changing rooms are conveniently located throughout the terminals.

Conference and Business Facilities

Sydney Airport Executive Services (tel: (02) 9667 6534; website: www.execservices.com.au) hires out a number of business and conference venues in both T1 International Terminal and T2 Domestic Terminal. There are two meeting/function rooms (the Kingsford Smith Suite holds up to 400 delegates) and two VIP suites in T1, while T2 has meeting rooms, conference space and a function area catering for up to 1,000 people. A catering service is also available. Overhead projectors, screens, flipcharts and whiteboards come as standard, while AV equipment and sound systems are available on request. There are seven airline lounges in T1 and one in T2.

Facilities for Disabled Travellers

Facilities for disabled passengers include showers, toilets, ramps and lowered telephones, text telephones, telephones fitted with induction loops, and drinking fountains. Passengers with special needs should advise their airline at least 72 hours before departure. Wheelchairs are available from the Tourism New South Wales desk. Disabled parking spaces are located at the front of the T1 International Terminal, for valid badge holders.

Hotels

Nearby hotels include the Airport Sydney International Inn, 35 Levey Street, Arncliffe (tel: (02) 9556 1555; website: www.airportinn.com.au), with meeting facilities; Holiday Inn Sydney Airport, corner of Bourke Road and O’Riordan Street (tel: (02) 9330 0600; website: www.ichotelsgroup.com), with meeting and banquet facilities; Ibis Hotel Sydney Airport, 205-213 O’Riordan Street (tel: (02) 8339 8500; website: www.accorhotels.com.au); and Stamford Sydney Airport Hotel, corner of O’Riordan Street and Robey Street (tel: (02) 9317 2200; website: www.stamford.com.au), with a business centre, secretarial services and conference facilities. The Tourism New South Wales Travel Centre can help arrange accommodation in Sydney.

Indonesian island hopping

May 2008

Rice terraces in Bali © C Cullern

Boasting a string of more than 13,000 sun-soaked isles stretching from Malaysia to Australia, Indonesia is an island hopper's paradise.
From the popular tourist hotspots of Bali and Lombok to the white sandy beaches of the tranquil Gili Isles, Indonesia's archipelago is bursting with culture, dramatically rugged coastlines and bustling nightlife.

With a variety of boat transfers and ferry services available, an island hopping adventure is a fantastic way of experiencing Indonesia's intriguing diversity.

Bali

Monkey Forest Sanctuary © C Cullern
Bali is an island of ever-changing facades. Whilst Kuta has become renowned for its surf culture and numerous bars, the inland villages give way to lush rice terraces and breathtaking temples.

The mountain village of Ubud is the best place to experience traditional Balinese culture. As the island's cultural heartland, the village abounds with magnificent temples, local art galleries, museums and performance venues. Ubud's most popular attraction is the Monkey Forest Sanctuary (website: www.monkeyforestubud.com), where visitors can get up close and personal with the resident, and extremely mischievous, macaques.

The laid-back beach resort of Lovina, in the north of the island, is a great place to escape the tourist throngs of the south. Boats can be chartered to the surrounding islands from the centre of Kalibukbuk, as well as early morning dolphin-watching trips, which offer a jaw-dropping view of Bali as the sun rises above the island's looming volcanic peaks.
The dramatic temple of Tanah Lot © C Cullern
Tanah Lot is Bali's most famed temple, and sits aloft a rocky offshore outcrop, just west of Denpasar. Set in a dramatic landscape of glistening black sand and lashing waves, the multi-tiered shrine is well worth a visit and is especially magnificent at sunset.

Padang Bai is Bali's main port for Lombok as well as boat charters to the Gili Islands and Komodo. You can buy ferry tickets from the port itself, whilst all-inclusive trips to the Gili Islands (including ferry, minibus transfer and local island crossing) are available from one of the many local tour companies.

Lombok

Lombok's stunning scenery © C Cullern
Although often compared to the neighbouring island of Bali, Lombok differs dramatically in culture, offering a much slower pace of life and remaining relatively unaffected by the tourist trade - earning it a reputation as a more adventurous destination.

North Lombok is dominated by the staggering volcanic mass of Gunung Rinjani, which has created an arresting black sandy coastline. As well as climbing up the mountainous terrain, visitors can cool off in one of the many waterfalls or take in some local village culture.

Nature lovers will appreciate the picturesque upland Sembalun valley, which is not only surrounded by impressive mountain peaks, but is also a far cry from the usual tourist trail. For the more active visitor, the big swell along Lombok's south-coast beaches attracts a mass of surfers to its many hidden coves.

Boats travel frequently from Bali such as Bounty Cruise (website: www.balibountycruises.com) and Bluewater Safaris (website: www.bwsbali.com), which also offers air-conditioned trips to the Gili Islands. A slower and cheaper alternative is the aptly named Slow Ferry from Padang Bai, which takes around five hours. In summer months aim for the air-conditioned lounges as the trip can be unbearably hot.

Gili Islands

Gili Trawangan © C Cullern
The little known Gili Islands are a collection of three unspoilt havens, sitting off the north west coast of Lombok. Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air are all strikingly beautiful with vast swathes of pure white sand and evian-clear waters that boast stunning coral reefs.

Although the nightlife is fairly low-key on all three islands, there is a great choice of accommodation from traditional wooden lodges to more luxurious villas, as well as a good selection of bars and restaurants. With a population of 700, Gili Trawangan is the largest and most lively island, with nightly beach parties, bars, restaurants and numerous dive centres.

One main draw of the Gilis is the fabulous snorkelling and diving opportunities. As well as snorkelling equipment for hire, there are a number of Padi certified dive centres on Gili Trawangan, which offer courses for beginners and more experienced divers. Not only is this a great opportunity to catch a glimpse of a sea turtle or reef shark, you can achieve your Padi certificate for a nominal cost in a stunning location.

You can reach all of the islands from Lombok's port of Bangsal, from where regular public boats leave between 0730 and 1630, as well as shuttle boats and private charters. There is also a twice-daily Perama shuttle boat from Senggigi, although the running of this does depend on the weather conditions.

Komodo

Stone carvings of Komodo dragons © C Cullern
For the more adventurous traveller, various organised boat trips can be taken to the island of Komodo. Although the journey can take up to a day from either Lombok or the Gili Islands, once there visitors can marvel at the stunning wildlife and get the rare chance to see the feeding of the prehistoric-sized Komodo dragons.

Perama offers trips from Senggigi on Lombok and Coconut Cottages from Gili Air (website: www.coconuts-giliair.com). Lombok Sailing (website: www.lomboksailing.com) offers a variety of trips including Komodo and Flores. Most trips last around four days and three nights aboard traditional wooden charter boats.

Further information:

For further information visit the Ministry of Culture and Tourism at www.my-indonesia.info.

'Zamboanga' The southern Philippine city home to the sea-dwelling ‘Bajau’ people

Flying from the Philippine capital of Manila toward the city of Zamboanga on the island of Mindanao, you actually don’t realize at all what sort of city you are about to see.
The first wave of serious heat hit our faces when the airplane door opened. At first we thought it was just the heat radiating from the plane’s engines, but then we started to realize -- after having left the plane -- that this typical, unchanging Zamboanga heat is normal for the city, set along the coast, with no real difference between summer and winter.
Be forewarned: Heat levels here are sometimes unbearable. Even the locals feel this way as they desperately search for any shade in which to take shelter during the worst of it. Of course, this means that when electricity cuts occur -- and they do -- and people have to do without their air conditioners, they just have to learn how to deal with these levels of heat.
The southern region of the Philippines has a high population of Muslims, and Zamboanga is one of the cities in this region with the highest concentration of Muslims.
With its thousands upon thousands of bicycles and peddled vehicles crowding the streets, Zamboanga -- whose name is reminiscent of either an African nation or an African city -- is a city that shelters 1,001 different cultural treasures. One of these treasures is the Bajau, a tribe of people who consider it bad fortune to have to live on land.
The Bajaus do not build their homes on land, preferring instead to live on the sea. In fact, they have built their homes directly over the sea, forming entire neighborhoods over the water, which look like a world of wooden homes standing over the waves below. Some of the homes are patched with tin barrels where there was not enough wood, and the roofs of the Bajau homes are generally made of reeds, though sometimes also of tin barrels. Some of these Bajau homes are truly far from land, while others are closer to the shore, but they are all, in the end, directly over the sea. Bajau homes are elevated on poles that are fixed in the bottom of the sea over which they stand, allowing the homes to stay free of damage from the waves below. Keep in mind, there is neither electricity nor running water in these homes, and thus none of the modern conveniences such as televisions and other appliances that require electricity. These are a tribe of people who have firmly pushed away modernity with both hands. There are spots for toilets in these homes, but the “toilets” empty straight into the sea below.
The food needs of the Bajau are, of course, also met by the blue sea that surrounds them. Their main income is from fishing, and in every home there is at least one canoe. Just as people all over the world park their cars in their garages, the Bajau park their canoes underneath their houses. We were a bit worried when we first got into one of these canoes because they are narrow water vehicles that look as though they could tip over at any moment. Some of the Bajau have attached motors to their canoes while others use paddles to get around.
The Bajau also spend much of their time growing and caring for “seaweed farms.” Seaweed is an important source of nutrition for them. The Bajau are a poor people with very little in the way of clothing or materials for inside the home. The only thing that allows them to continue living in their homes unprotected against the cold and other elements is the climate which is fair all year around. Remember, the Philippines are right along the equator and the weather here reflects that fact.
In recent years, the children of this community have begun to finally go to school. But this does not change the course of their traditions, as the children continue their cultural inheritance of living out their lives over the sea, just as their grandparents taught their mothers and fathers. Children born in these homes are instilled in their early years with a continuing and faithful love for life at sea.
There are some elements of Bajau life that have begun to change little by little, though. The government has even built them some new homes, completely out of wood, and introduced electricity to them. We walked along the streets, built above the sea, and looked around us, catching glimpses of children’s faces peeking out of windows in curiosity. Some even gathered up their courage and tried to speak with us...
We headed back to the shore later but, thinking about the faces of the children looking out from the rickety wooden homes built over the sea, what a contrast the life of fishing by canoe and living under the sky and over the sea is to the rest of the world, which has in the meantime plunged into the era of computers. Ottoman mosque in Zamboanga Ottoman Sultan Abdülhamid II received reports from two envoys he had sent to the Far East of the urgent need for a mosque in the Muslim Zamboanga region of the Philippines. The pasha then sent the necessary money, candelabras and interior furnishings for such a mosque to be built. The spot for the construction of the new mosque was donated by the family of Faruk Nunio Bey, and during the actual construction, there were many volunteers helping out. And thus the Taluksangay Mosque was finally opened for prayers. As it turns out, this is the first mosque built on the Zamboanga peninsula and is a leader in the coming spread of Islam through the nearby region. After the Japanese invasion of 1945, the mosque was partially destroyed, though Muslims in the region banded together to help reconstruct it in 1947, turning it into the mosque you can still see standing in Zamboanga today.
Rooster fights
The Philippines are quite well known for the cock fights they hold, so seriously organized that they have their own leagues. We decide to visit a site where one of these famous fights is held. One of the roosters in the fight we watched receives a series of back-to-back deathly attacks from its opponent and tried to fight back, but failed in the end. His brain could no longer direct his wounded body. He fell to floor and died. As for the victor, he did not resemble at all the bird that first entered the ring: he was not dead, but was quite bloody. His owner was smiling as he got his bird from the ring. After all, this rooster was the winner.
Filipino-Turkish school
The city of Zamboanga on the island of Mindanao has a “Filipino-Turkish school of tolerance” for primary, middle, and high school students and boasts 300 students. Both Muslim and Christian students study here and learning tolerance of one another’s religion and way of life, just as the school’s name indicates.
This school prepares students to be entrepreneurs and to have more self-confidence in addition to the typical coursework seen in other schools. The school also extensively cooperates with other local schools, but it does have its own activity program.
This day in Zamboanga passed quickly, but it was filled with very many interesting sights and sounds -- from the city of people living above the sea to the bicycles of Zamboanga to the bloody cock fights and, of course, the heart-warming experience of seeing the Filipino-Turkish school. As the day comes to a close, we bid farewell to the island of Mindanao with a smile on our face...

[TRAVEL TIPS]

Visas: Visas are required for Turkish citizens traveling to the Philippines. These visas are good for three weeks and can be extended if requested. All you need to do is contact the Philippine Embassy or consulate and show proof of either a two-way ticket out of the country or that you are traveling on to a different destination.
How to go: There are no direct flights from Turkey to the Philippines. You can travel with Turkish Airlines to the Thai capital of Bangkok and then transfer from Bangkok to Manila. There are other ways to go, too: Fly with Singapore Airlines though Singapore or with Emirates Airlines through Dubai, but just remember that this journey is neither short nor cheap!
Where to stay: There are lots of beautiful hotels in the Philippines, especially if you are staying in the capital, Manila. Prices can range anywhere from between $40 to $300 per night, so all sorts of budgets can be accommodated.
Cuisine: The menus here can be very difficult for anyone accustomed to different flavors. This is certainly true for those used to Turkish cuisine. Philippine cuisine is quite far from Turkish cooking. But if you don’t like what you eat in restaurants, rest assured you can always find something you’ll like at the open buffets offered at some of the larger hotels. There are also lots of restaurants that cater to European tourists. Prices for a meal can range from $20 to $100 per head.
Best time to go: Visitors heading to the Philippines should always remember that it is quite humid here year round. There are two basic seasons across the country: rainy and non-rainy. The non-rainy season runs from December though May and the rainy season begins in June and runs through November. We do advise that if you are going to travel to the Philippines that you go when it is not rainy. Though higher spots in the country can be cooler, the average national temperature is between 24 and 31 degrees Celsius. Remember, this does not take into account the ever-present humidity.

Monday, May 5, 2008

travel guide -usa- A unique perspective on America: the modest lifestyle of the Amish of Pennsylvania

We set out from New York to Pennsylvania to explore the community of the Amish, members of a unique branch of Christianity who have chosen to avoid technology and live a life reminiscent of that lived by Americans more than a hundred years ago.
We see an Amish youth sowing fields as we pass by; he’s around 14 years old and in front of him is an old-fashioned two-wheeled plowing machine pulled by eight horses. We stop for and look at how he plows these fields with this system.

The Amish, as a Christian sect, first appeared in 1525 in Switzerland. They are now spread across 19 states in the US, though they are mostly concentrated in Pennsylvania. There are estimated to be around 1 million Amish throughout the US, though they are a community that prefers to stick close to one another.
The Amish first came to America after experiencing repression as a result of their chosen lifestyle in Europe in the 18th century. The younger generations who arrived in America around that time began to be called the “Pennsylvania Dutch” by those around them. After the initial Amish migrants arrived in America, the community began to spread out, heading for Ohio, other middle-western states and even Canada. To get an idea of the general avoidance of technology observed amongst the Amish, think about the fact that some of the most conservative members of the community do not use buttons on their clothing, preferring instead hooks and knots to close their outfits.
The clothing worn by the Amish generally resembles old European styles. Their religious ceremonies take place in their homes and the men are generally bearded. Interestingly, just as the Amish refuse to work in service for the state, they also do not vote or serve in the military. Members of the Old Order Amish, considered to be by far the most conservative group in this community, are estimated number around 80,000.
High levels of discipline
From time to time, the Amish encounter serious difficulties in their relations with the non-Amish communities that live around them. Most Amish families are opposed to regular schooling for their children, as they feel it represents a threat to their way of life. They see, for example, a normal high school education for a teenager as something that would make it difficult for the teenager to continue on in his or her Amish way of life. The court system in America has supported this position, ruling that as a group, the Amish have a right to their own religious ways and that they are not required to send their children to non-Amish schools.
Agriculture is a very important part of Amish life and they plow and take care of their fields just as they have throughout history. Their avoidance of technology is very present in this area, too, as you can see from the fact that their fields are almost never maintained with tractors. Their community standards generally prohibit the use of tractors and the Amish also do not use cars. The Amish tend to be wary of anything that might pull them toward worldliness. They do use mechanical tools, however, such as the metal plows we see being pulled by horses.
We see another Amish youth working as we continue down the road. He, too, is using a plow tool pulled by horses to work his field. He is 13 years old. Even though he has only been working on this field for about a week, it looks very well plowed. He will no doubt continue doing this work for his entire life. Younger members of the community, such as this teenager, start from a very young age to learn how to use these mechanical agricultural tools and later they will learn how to use even more complicated ones and thus continue the ways of their grandparents and great-grandparents. All this, despite the fact that the nation they live in, the US, offers some of the most advanced technology available in the world.
Women and female youth in this sect of Christianity wear head coverings similar to the Muslim headscarf. Even the little girls we see running next to their fathers, who are busy plowing fields, cover their heads. When we ask their mothers about this, they tell us that it is a part of their religion and traditions. After agriculture, animal husbandry is the second biggest source of income for the Amish community. We see lots and lots of cows eating grass in the wide fields of the community we are passing through.
The fact that there is no electricity used in Amish homes means that there are, of course, no electric appliances in use in these homes, either. In other words, no refrigerators, no washing machines, no dishwashers; the Amish abstain from all these conveniences. And, of course, no televisions. The absence of cars also means that the Amish rely on other means to travel, most noticeably, horse-drawn carriages. Just as most American families park their cars in front of their homes, the Amish park their horse-drawn carriages out front and put their horses in their stables.
Another interesting aspect of Amish life is that they do not use cemeteries. They bury their dead in the gardens and yards of their homes. Photographs are also forbidden in their brand of Christianity, which places a strong emphasis on modesty and shuns anything that may lead to vanity. When we ask if we can at least photograph some of the Amish children, the elders tell us: “We need to teach our children about all this while they are still young..”
The Amish bring their children up to continue this modest lifestyle and maintain the values that have guided their communities for so long now. The younger members of the community are taught to carry on the Amish ways and so they will, even if the rest of the world around them looks on in astonishment.

[TRAVEL TIPS]

Visa: The US requires visas for Turkish citizens. You can obtain a visa from the US embassy in Ankara or the US Consulate in İstanbul. The cost is $100. Citizens from nations like England, Canada, Australia and New Zealand can enter the US without visas and stay up to 90 days.
How to get there: Turkish Airlines (THY) has regular flights from İstanbul to both New York and Chicago. This is the best way to visit the US, especially if you don’t want to transfer, but simply fly directly.
Where to stay: You will never have a problem finding a hotel to fit your particular budget in America. Of course, tourist areas during the summer months can present a bit more of a problem and you will need reservations. Prices can range anywhere between $50 and $500 per night.
Cuisine: Turkish citizens accustomed to their own food might have some problems getting used to food in the US. But there are so many options available that, in the end, you will most likely find something that pleases you. There are large Turkish populations in areas like New York and New Jersey, so you could always go to one of the many Turkish restaurants here, if nothing else.
Best time to go: The northern states of America can be cold in the winter, so try to visit in the summer months. But remember, just as the northern states can freeze in the winter, the southern regions of America can swelter in the summertime.

travel guide -turkey- Kızkalesi: sun, sea, sand -- and castles

Over the millennia, Turkey has been inhabited by a succession of different peoples and civilizations. Each has left their mark.

Hittite rock-reliefs, Greek theaters, Roman aqueducts, Byzantine churches, Seljuk caravanserais and Ottoman mosques -- amongst countless other remains -- litter the nation’s often beautiful landscape. Some of these sites, backed by campaigns and promotions launched by the publicity gurus in the Ministry of Tourism, have become iconic. They appear to sum up, in a series of startling photographic images, everything this fascinating country has to offer. The library of Celsus at Ephesus, Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, the Commagene heads atop Mt. Nemrut, the cliff-hanging monastery of Sumela and the palace of İshak Paşa above Doğubayazıt sites whose images lack the “in your face” grandeur and power of the “A” list but which nonetheless command your attention and intrigue you sufficiently to vow to get around to visiting them one day. Think, perhaps, of Antalya’s Yivli Minare, Amasya’s rock-cut tombs or Harran’s “beehive” houses. Top of this hypothetical “B” list for me, though, would have to be the offshore ruin of medieval Kızkalesi, or “The Maiden’s Castle.”
Situated on the Mediterranean coast between Mersin and Silifke, Kızkalesi possesses a rare beauty. Traveler and writer Michael Pereira was fortunate enough to have visited the castle back in the 1960s, when the rash of development now scarring the mainland opposite the castle was not even at the itching stage. Pereira, standing on the golden strand of beach opposite the castle describes it in glowing terms:
“Whether its setting is unique I do not know, but certainly it is superb. It seems to float upon the water like a ship, its smooth and rounded towers, menacing yet graceful, thrown into sharp relief against the brilliant sky and sea. Nothing breaks the outline, no crowding tree or dipping slope of a hill. It is a perfect silhouette of grey on blue. Isolated, inaccessible and remote as the legend which clings to it.”
Pereira, hot and bothered after his exertions exploring the ancient town of Korykos (which lies across the coast road behind the modern resort of Kizkalesi and can still be visited today) elected to swim the 250 meters or so to the castle. He found little of interest there, as the interior was just a mass of tumbled masonry and the once well-patrolled walls home only to noisy sea gulls. Today, of course, you don’t have to swim to the castle. The western end of the beach has several boats with captains quite happy to divest you of a few lira to make the crossing. Unlike Perieira, you’ll have the opportunity to take photos en route, and be well enough shod to explore inside the castle without fear of getting a thorn in your foot.
Despite the mess of concrete that has disfigured the town of Kızkalesi, it is still a great place for a vacation -- especially if you have kids. Most of the accommodation is in small, family run pensions with shady gardens and easy access to the wonderful beach -- easily the best on this stretch of the Mediterranean. The sand is fine, soft and shelves very gently into the limpid blue waters of the sea. As you lay back on a sun-lounger, reading your book under the shade of a beach umbrella, you can keep an eye on your offspring splashing safely in the shallows. And of course if they want to build a sandcastle using the very fine materials to hand, they have a perfect model to work from -- the ever-present Maiden’s Castle seemingly floating on the sea just a short way offshore. If they complete that one, just point down the beach to the so-called land castle -- another romantic ruin that was once joined to the sea castle by a causeway. It’s worth exploring this overgrown ruin, preferably around sunset, when it is cooler and the encroaching shadows lend an air of mystery. Many of the materials used in the castle are recycled -- purloined from the remnants of the ancient Roman/Byzantine city of Korykos -- including columns, capitals and other chunks of decorative masonry. The view from the battlements at this time of day is superb, with the distant walls, towers and parapets of Kızkalesi mirrored in the placid deep blue waters of the bay.
If you tire of castles and the beach, there is plenty to do around Kızkalesi. Just a few kilometers to the west is the charming seaside village of Narlıkuyu. Here the late Roman Kızlar Hamamı or Bath of Pompenius is worth a look, with a fine mosaic floor depicting the Three Graces, minor goddesses in the Greek pantheon of divinities personifying beauty, gentleness and friendship. There are a number of fish restaurants here with good reputations -- and they are certainly more atmospheric than the eateries in Kızkalesi. Far more likely to get your kids attention are the nearby Cennet ve Cehennem. After all, what kid could resist a trip to heaven and hell! Cennet (heaven) is a 70-meter-deep gorge formed by the collapse of an underground canyon, reached by a mighty flight of steps. Beyond the gorge is a genuine cave, that of Typhon who, according to Greek myth, was a fire breathing monster with a hundred heads and father of Cerberus, the fierce three-headed dog who guarded the entrance to the underworld. Handily enough, virtually next door to heaven is hell (cehennem). A 120-meter-deep sinkhole rather than a true cave, it is supposedly where Zeus imprisoned Titan and, according to local legend, marks one of the entrances to the underworld.
If the heat is not too unbearable there are a number of classical era ruins scattered in the hills behind Kızkalesi, and along the coast to the east. Adamkayalar is perhaps the most interesting. Here a terraced rock face is punctured by Roman era tombs with relief carvings of the dead -- but be warned -- the path up is steep and rock-face precipitous, so take care. Three kilometers along the coast is the modern village of Ayat, ancient Elaeusa Sebastae. The remains here date from the Roman and Byzantine periods. The pick of the monuments is a well-preserved temple, with a number of Corinthian columns still standing. Further on lie the remains of another ancient city -- Kanytelis or, in Turkish, Kanlıdivane (place of blood). The ruins here are grouped around a large chasm some 90 meters long, 70 meters wide and 60 meters deep. Locals believe it was used to execute criminals -- first by throwing them into the chasm and then by watching them be devoured by wild animals. It’s a good story for the kids even if it is only local lore.
Kızkalesi has a great beach, friendly family pensions, plenty of things of interest nearby -- and an iconic fairytale castle. What more could anyone ask for?

The legend

Your kids may be intrigued to learn the legend of Kızkalesi referred to by Pereira. It seems that a local king had a very beautiful and much loved daughter. Unfortunately, a soothsayer visiting the court one day foretold that this attractive girl would die tragically young -- after being bitten by a venomous snake. In an attempt to thwart destiny, the king ordered a castle to be built out to sea. Once the castle was completed the king sent his daughter off to live there -- protected from serpents by the natural barrier of the sea and castle’s ramparts. The girl passed her time quite happily until her 16th birthday. Unfortunately, as a gift the king decided to send his daughter a present -- a basket of figs. Excitedly the girl uncovered her treat -- only to reveal a deadly viper hidden amongst the delicious fruit. Destiny was not to be averted and the girl succumbed to its deadly bite. Locals claim the castle is still inhabited by venomous snakes -- descendents of the lethal viper -- so it may be better to tell your kids this tale after a trip to the ruins!

The real story

The real story of the twin castles is interesting enough. They were built in the 12th century when this region was part of the Cilician Kingdom of Armenia (set up by Armenians fleeing eastern Anatolia following the arrival of the Seljuk Turks in 1071) to protect the flourishing port and town of Korykos from seaborne invasion. During the 12th and 13th centuries this region was much affected by the passage of the Crusaders, traveling through en route to the Holy Land. In the 14th century the famous Crusader Lusignan dynasty assumed control of the Cilician Kingdom of Armenia (through marriage) and King Peter used the castle as a base against the Muslim Turks in Anatolia. In the end, though, Islam prevailed. In 1448 the castle fell to one İbrahim Bey and became an Ottoman possession not long after.

[TRAVEL TIPS]

How to get there:
Nearest airport, Adana (regular flights from Ankara, Istanbul and Antalya). Frequent buses from Adana to Kızkalesi (2 hours).
Where to stay:
Yaka Hotel Tel: (324) 523 2444; www.yakahotel.com
Hantur Tel: (324) 523 2322; hotelhantur@tnnn.net.tr
Where to eat:
Kızkalesi: Pata Restaurant
Narlıkuyu: Kerim Rerstaurant
Admission times and fees:
Kızkalesi (Maiden’s Castle): Daily, dawn to dusk 2 YTL
Korykos (land) Castle: Daily, dawn to dusk 2 YTL
Bath of Pompenius at Narlıkuyu: 2 YTL
Cennet ve Cehennem: 8 a.m.-5 p.m., 2 YTL
Kanlıdıvane: 8 a.m.-7 p.m., 2 YTL
Guides and books: “Blue Guide Turkey; Mountains and a Shore” by Michael Pereira